Whether you are a backyard hobbyist or a major maple producer, you need access to a lot of tree sap. Forty gallons of sap produce approximately one gallon of maple syrup, and each tap on a tree can yield 10 gallons of sap over the season, according to UNH Extension.
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Now, 90% of the trees they tap belong to neighbors, who receive bottles of syrup in return for the sap. And, close to 40 acres in the surrounding area are protected by a conservation easement, thanks to the Piscataquog Land Conservancy. It makes good sense to think long term, when sugar maples can be tapped for hundreds of years.
Although modern day commercial operations differ greatly from those of our ancestors, the basic process of converting maple sap to syrup still requires the removal of water from the raw sap to form the finished product. Most novice producers find the experience of producing maple syrup rewarding far beyond the sweet product of their labor. After a few years of experience, many beginners develop a level of enthusiasm that advances them to commercial-size maple production. This leaflet provides instruction for those producing maple syrup for the first time, primarily for home or family use. Remember, although you may want to innovate to minimize production costs, maple syrup is a food product and should be produced only with equipment and materials that are approved for food application.
Although several types of maples grow in the Northeast, sugar maple (Acer saccharum) is the traditional species tapped for maple syrup production. The sap of the sugar maple generally contains a higher level of sugar than the other maples. Identify sugar maple by its bark, its dark, brownish-colored, sharp buds, and its five-lobed leaves. Red maple (Acer rubrum) can be tapped also, but its sap is less sweet and the tree breaks bud before sugar maple. When buds break, or expand in late spring, the sap becomes off flavored and is not desirable for processing. The red maple has red colored, rounded buds and its three-lobed leaf is known for its vivid brilliant red color in autumn. Another species, black maple, varies slightly in the visual characteristics of sugar maple, but otherwise yields sap of similar quality to the sugar maple. Most syrup producers treat the black and sugar maple as one species (figure 1).
Most of the equipment required for tapping may be available in the home workshop or purchased with minimal investment. Buckets, covers, and spiles (also called spouts) are available from maple equipment dealers and many hardware stores. Other possible sap containers include clean plastic milk jugs or plastic containers with covers. The equipment for processing sap will require greater investment, but will last for many years if maintained properly. Used equipment may be purchased but use judgement and acquire only equipment free of rust and fabricated of food-grade materials. Following is a suggested list of equipment and materials for making maple syrup for home-use.
Tap maple trees in early spring when daytime temperatures go above freezing while nighttime temperatures fall below freezing. The exact time depends on the elevation and location of your trees and your region. In Pennsylvania and southern regions of New York, first sap flow traditionally takes place in mid- to late-February. In northern regions and at higher elevations, the season often begins in early to mid-March. Sap usually flows for 4 to 6 weeks or as long as the freezing nights and warm days continue. If you are uncertain about when to tap, consult with a nearby maple producer or contact your Extension Office.
Tapholes should be drilled when temperatures are above freezing to reduce the risk of damage to the tree. Use a 7/16 inch diameter drill (available from hardware stores or maple equipment dealers) in a hand brace or breast drill. Drill into the trunk of the tree in an area that contains sound wood (free of scars, wounds, or older tapholes). If sap will be collected in buckets, a height of two to three feet above ground level allows for easy collection. However, the height can vary depending on preferences, age, and size of the individual tapping the tree. If the tree has been tapped in previous years, locate the new taphole at least 6 inches laterally and 24 inches vertically from the old taphole to insure tapping into good, productive sapwood.
After making sure that the new taphole is free of shavings, insert the spile and seat it with a light hammer. Tap, not pound, the spile in the taphole. Seat the spile properly so it can support the bucket. Driving the spile with force can split the bark delaying taphole closure and causing a substantial wound on the tree for many years (Figure 3). Do not treat the taphole with disinfectants or other materials at the time of tapping. After removing spiles from the tapholes at the end of the maple season, do not plug the taphole. Tapping done properly will allow tapholes to close naturally (covered by bark) in about two years and will allow the tree to remain healthy and productive for generations.
Plastic tubing may be used in place of buckets, but its use will not be discussed here. For more information on using maple tubing, consult your maple equipment dealer, local maple producer, or Extension Office.
Throughout the process, excess foam may be skimmed off the surface of the boiling sap and discarded. Many types of materials, such as butter or vegetable oil, have been used to reduce foaming. However, a commercial defoaming agent available in small containers from maple equipment dealers is recommended. The defoamer should be fresh, and only a drop or two is needed. When used in small quantities, defoamers will evaporate without a noticeable trace in the syrup.
When syrup has reached its proper temperature and density, it should be filtered to remove a gritty material called "sugar sand" or "niter" before hot packing in containers. The syrup should be filtered while hot through clean filter material such as wool or orlon available from maple equipment dealers. Syrup should be canned hot (180oF) and stored in a cool dry location or under refrigeration. After a container has been opened for use, it must be refrigerated. Should mold form on syrup that has been stored for several months, simply bring the syrup to near boiling (190oF), remove the mold by skimming, and repack the syrup in a clean container.
The procedure above is intended for home manufacture of maple syrup. If syrup is to be marketed, grading and labeling standards are required for retail sale in most maple producing states. Contact your Extension Office or state Department of Agriculture for regulations covering maple products.
After a period of warm weather, cloudy sap may appear in buckets or gathering equipment. This is caused by bacterial growth and can have a negative affect on syrup color and taste. A mixture of 1 part unscented household bleach to 20 parts clean water can be used with a cloth or brush to clean the inside surfaces of sap collection equipment. Follow the cleaning with a triple rinse of clean water to remove any hint of the bleach application. Sap boiling equipment can be cleaned with hot water, or the product recommended by the equipment manufacturer. Do not use any other cleaning substances in any maple equipment. Household detergents cannot be completely rinsed from equipment and will contaminate sap and syrup with undersirable tastes and odors. When washing sap or syrup filters, use hot water only. At the end of the season after cleaning in the manner described above, store equipment and supplies in a dry place.
Production supplies and materials are available from maple equipment dealers throughout the maple producing regions. Many local hardware stores carry a small line of equipment such as buckets and spiles. Used equipment is often offered for sale in classified sections of local newspapers and agricultural circulars. A maple equipment dealer or distributor nearest you can be located by contacting your local Extension Office, maple producers in your area, or through your county, regional, or state maple organization.
Note: Not EVERY branch on a maple will have an opposite branch pair since they can break off or fail to thrive for various reasons, but you will begin to recognize the way a tree with paired branches look versus alternate branching with some practice.
Once you collect the sap you just need to boil it down until the maple syrup boils at 219 degrees Fahrenheit (104 Celsius) at sea level. Generally speaking, it will take 40 gallons of sap to make 1 gallon syrup (all maple trees produce sap with different sugar content so this number varies). Most of the evaporation is typically done on an evaporator in a sugarhouse or, in our case, over a fire outside. We use stainless steel chafing pans propped up on concrete blocks over an open fire to rapidly boil our sap. We try to avoid spending too much on equipment and supplies so we can understand the process and be more involved. When the syrup is getting close to finished, we run it through a filter (cheesecloth will work) and finish boiling on our kitchen stove until it is boiling at the right temperature.
SUBJECT: Aeronautics TOPIC: Helicopters DESCRIPTION: Autorotating helicopters, based on the shape of maple seeds, are made from paper. CONTRIBUTED BY: Gregory Vogt, OSU EDITED BY: Roger Storm, NASA Glenn Research Center
MATERIALS: Paper (stiffer paper works better) Scissors Paper clips PROCEDURE: 1.Make copies of the maple seed pattern and derivatives on blank paper. Cut out each pattern. 2.Attach a paper clip to each design and slightly warp (curl) the paper to produce an airfoil shape. 3.Drop each "maple seed" from a height of at least 5 feet and watch its fall. 4.If the design fails to autorotate, adjust the position of the paper clip slightly. Keep adjusting the clip until the "maple seed" begins autorotating as it falls. 5.Experiment with different designs of your own making. 2ff7e9595c
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